
A profissão de barista vai muito além de um preparador de café! O ofício exige constante inquietude para pesquisar, experimentar, combinar, reexperimentar, recombinar, inventar, reinventar, “fuçar” e insistir até que se consiga o objetivo desejado. E foi isso que o tetracampeão brasileiro de barismo, Leo Moço, fez para chegar ao Sprouting Process (processo de brotação, em tradução livre do inglês).
Com o apoio da Emater do Paraná, já que ele vive em Curitiba, o especialista desenvolveu um método pós-colheita que faz com que o grão possa valer até dez vezes mais do que valeria em condições normais.
O processo consiste em colocar os frutos dentro de uma bombona de plástico. Uma válvula retira o ar, criando um ambiente anaeróbico[u1] . A presença de CO2 dificulta o desenvolvimento de bactérias e de fungos, o que faz com que enzimas presentes na casca do café fermentem naturalmente, conferindo muito mais aroma e sabor aos grãos. O efeito é análogo ao que se dá com o malte da cerveja.
No caso do Sprouting Process, essa metodologia dura de 10 a 20 dias e pode ser usada com grãos de todo o país. “Comecei a me dedicar a isso em 2016. Em 2017, aprimoramos; e, no ano passado, aqui na Fazenda Sequóia, em Angelândia (MG), conseguimos os melhores resultados”, diz o barista, que estava na fazenda quando conversou com a nossa reportagem.
A origem da ideia
A ideia surgiu quando Moço atentou para o fato de o café brasileiro passar até 90 dias a menos no pé do que na Colômbia, por exemplo, inibindo a maturação completa do fruto. “Pensei em maneiras de fazer com que o café brasileiro se desenvolvesse após a colheita como se estivesse ainda no pé. Durante o Sprouting Process, os grãos têm seu potencial de germinação prolongado, como se estivéssemos colhendo cafés prematuros e utilizando a bombona como incubadora no desenvolvimento de ‘supergrãos’”, afirmou Leo Moço ao Notícias Agrícolas.
Ele ressalta ainda que o nome Sprouting Process está registrado, mas o método é de domínio público: “Nossa intenção foi passar isso aos produtores para que eles possam dar um salto de qualidade”.
O profissional enfatiza também que a Emater paranaense sempre apoiou e acompanhou a criação do Sprouting Process, mas, depois dos bons resultados na colheita de 2019, a iniciativa foi estendida para 40 regionais paranaenses cobertas pela empresa. Mais de uma centena de produtores já colhem, literalmente, os frutos do método.
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